CLANDESTINE’S DAY OUT AT THE IPLFW – Volume 2

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GenNext and more…

The rest of the GenNext show was mediocre (and I’m being lenient). Some of the garments displayed took our breath away by the sheer lack of design sense while some others comprised such cheap fabric and surface ornamentation that we were left appalled (and slightly irritated). Ok, to be fair, there was a tiny part of the show that did feature wonderful style trends that had a lot of potential to be tapped. Let me take a quick moment to mention two designers (not GenNext) who not only showed fabulous collections but also were a pleasure to interact with after the show. Warm, welcoming, humble and extremely patient with all the questions and small talk we put them through…I’m kidding! Clandestine Cigarettes make for wonderful company‼ Anyhoo, I hope they remain the same a few years down the line when they’re hotshot designers showing in Selfridges.

So Ankyra by Priyanka Kakkar was a treat to the eyes starved for fine design sensibility. TEAL TEAL TEAL! She took the hottest colour of the blue-green palette and used it in stunning fabric to retain (and nourish) the richness of the colour. Velvets provided the classic touch to an already royal collection and there was an interesting combination of surface ornamentation and draping, of creative pattern making and play of seams in simple shift silhouettes.

She made a smart decision to avoid accessories altogether. The garments were left to speak for themselves and that’s what was required!

Two thumbs up to Priyanka Kakkar! I guess the NIFT language spoke loud and clear (errm yeah I forgot to mention the tiny fact about her being a NIFT Delhi alumnus). 

Raman Vij was an absolute darling! Shy and humble, and one of THE most brilliant knitwear designers we’ve met (and we know what we’re talking about, as ahem…we’re knitwear designers from NIFT Mumbai ourselves :D) His flat knit structures had us wondering what commands he used on the knitwear machines to have them belt out such mindblowing knit-purl designs. He combined knits with woven fabric to create stunning patterns in (again) simple silhouettes. Get the drift guys? Keep the silhouette simple‼ Anyway, three cheers to Raman Vij. 

Some of the other labels on display were Soltee (wannabe exquisite), Timsy (wannabe western…why Timsy, why?), Arti Vijaygupta (Nice garments, no cohesion in the collection..ergo, not a “collection”) and Mohit Dochania (Kitsch! Manish Arora! Mohammad Ali Road fabric! Bhendi Bazaar trims! But an honest effort...:-D)

Soltee, IPLFW May 2010

Left: One of the looks from Timsy's collection.

Above: Spotted a HOT footwear trend at the same show.

ArtiVijay Gupta and Mohit at IPLFW, May 2010

I wanted to write so much more! I wanted to write the quintessential fashion critique analysing in detail the designs, the shows, the models, the music, the style trends spotted and the merchandise on display. I wanted to talk more about the guests, the organisation of the fashion event and the general management of the event held in what is considered one of the fashion capitals of the world. I wanted to tell you more about the designers and their inspirations and ideas. There was so much I wanted to share with you about Clandestine’s day at the IPLFW but the one fact that stood out from the rest and blurred my objectivity toward the rest of the event is how Indian fashion is still struggling for an identity amongst all the so-called “evolved” fashion leaders of the global industry. We went to the IPLFW and saw some marvellous talent and some who were trying to make a mark. We saw some who were proud of their roots and refused to buy into the “When in Rome” syndrome, and then some who tried their hand at western tailoring and ended up in no-man’s-land with neither western nor Indian construction/elements of design/fabric/styling/design interpretation and execution. We couldn’t help shake off the feeling that the Indian fashion industry should stop trying to fight for acceptance in the western world. We have all the talent and resources we need (probably more) and we can definitely hold our own in the global fashion industry.

TD*DG

CLANDESTINE’S DAY OUT AT THE IPLFW – Volume 1

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Clandestine Cigarettes proudly presents….*Drum Roll* ….a detailed account of the IPLFW‼ *Applause*. We went, we saw, we came away with mixed feelings. Yes we were tres happy to have been invited by our good friends, the Mapxencars, who were showing their collection, for the first time ever, on foreign shores. Yes, we loved the fact that the Indian fashion industry seemed to be getting bigger and (wish I could say better) bolder in terms of experimenting with a foreign market and trying to make its presence felt with minimal press coverage and media buzz. We liked the fact that a prime location in the heart of the city (Holborn, Southampton Row) was chosen as the venue of the first ever season of the Indian Premier London Fashion Week (actually 3 days). And finally, it was admirable that such a new body of the fashion industry was giving young, fledgling designers the chance to expand their wings and capture an international audience even before their teething stage in India had ended. Two thumbs up for courage and a pat on the back for encouraging new talent. So here’s what we thought about the whole event (starting with, of course, the Mapxecars‼) and then the rest of the day at the Bloomsbury Ballroom, Victoria House, Southampton Row, London.

mapxecaRS by Riddhi & Siddhi

These identical twin sisters are as different as chalk and cheese when it comes to personal style and personalities (for lack of a better word). But as a team, they’re perfect together. They understand each other’s design language and give each other enough creative space so that ultimately, as a label, the mapxencaRS come up with something they believe in and love! That is the commitment that was blatantly on display at the IPLFW GenNext show.

The sisters looked to one of the world's most renowned architects - Daniel Libeskind - for inspiration. A little background on the architect for the uninitiated - some of Daniel's best work includes such symbolic structures as the Jewish Museum in Berlin, Imperial War Museum in Manchester, the Spiral extension to the V & A Museum in London and master development of WTC.

The mapxencaRS used the theory of deconstruction (or what they called “deconstructionism…WHAAT‼ C’mon sistahs! That’s not even a word) and gave it a twist in fashion language through garment construction and draping techniques. Result? A very interesting play of seams twisted and stitched down to form mindboggling structures of lines and curves (good theme interpretation, innit?) Their palette comprised black in combination with grays, electric blue and a sprinkling of a range of pinks. The metallic edge (that defines Daniel’s work) was provided by silver.

The entire collection was cohesive in terms of theme interpretation. Kudos to them for maintaining harmony in the elements of design and experimenting with various construction techniques! However, maybe there was too much of a good thing in the collection? Too many elements together crowded the tiny area in the mini dresses. Additionally, there was one panel too many in some of the ensembles. However, the simple silhouette saved the day.

I have to make a special mention of the deadly diva that Siddhi was on ramp. Totally overshadowed the models! And Riddhi’s personality shone through the tiny black dress and engulfed the ramp atmosphere. Such a pleasure to watch these girls on ramp! A breath of fresh air when compared to the jeans-sneakers clad designers taking a bow at the end of a show while furiously chewing on gum.

After the show, the mapxencaRS gave us the chance to see them in action at their stall. Interacting with buyers, networking with potential clients, discussing business matters and generally being the entrepreneurs and proud owners of an already successful label. Gave us great pleasure to see our goofy friends from college transformed into serious business partners and we couldn’t help but be happy for their success.

Keep up the good work nos amies! We’re proud of you girls!

TD*DG

The symptoms of Ageing

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I opened one eye at a time. The distant sound of a clock ticking in an otherwise silent room. Disorientation. Confusion. A mild ache in my bones. Stiff feet. Cold panic! I jumped out of bed and ran to the bathroom mirror. Do I see wrinkles?! Oh no‼ I took a quick look at the back of my hands. Oh my God‼ I see veins. Green, prominent, protruding and mocking me as if to say “You old hag!” Nooo‼ It’s not the 9^th of May! I can’t be 25‼ I’ve crossed over to the dark side now. I’m in the silver club and time seems to be flying at the speed of light! To quote Joey Tribbiani (F.R.I.E.N.D.S) , “Why God why! Why are you doing this to us!” Ok breathe. Of course I’m being a total drama queen, imagining wrinkles and visible veins! I’m turning into a hypochondriac! Wait, is hypochondria a sign of old age? Stop it Tej! Breathe again. Relax. Rewind to 48 hours earlier. Smile. :-)

It’s 6 am and we’re all gorging on delicious potato curry and rice. We’re all partied out and my feet still hurt from all the dancing and the 45 minute walk to Marble Arch for the night bus home.

Darshana’s making potato curry and rice and desperately trying to persuade me to eat and then go to bed. But I’m old and tire easily. I just want to change into comfortable pyjamas and go to bed.

Santosh in between hiccups says “My grandmother told me to think of a random number and match it to a letter in the alphabet. So when you have hiccups, the person whose name begins with that letter is thinking of you really hard!” It’s funny how such random, juvenile talk can take your mind off the long, tedious journey home. My feet still hurt. Damn those uncomfortable heels!

Oh when will the bus come?! It’s 2.47 am and N207 should be at the stop any time now. I’m still smiling from the lovely party and sulking over the aging process at the same time.

I’m in Miami Biiitch! Oh how I love this song! And this was the third time it was being played! Does the DJ know it’s my birthday? I check my watch and smile. It still IS my birthday‼ Woohoo! So what if there are only 15 minutes to go? I’m still on the border separating youth from wannabe youth. I look around and see Darsh doing the “goin down low” competition with Pinca. Oops! Pinca spilled her drink AND Darshana’s! Everyone else was having a great time and dancing away to the wonderful music! I loved how all my friends came together to celebrate. Overwhelming and extremely touching.

We’re late! We were supposed to be at the FunkyBuddha at 10 and were on the way to the tube station at 9.45 pm‼ But would that prevent us from posing for pictures at the bus stop? No sir! Out comes the camera. Pose. Click. Flash. Change of pose.

Anne and Tabea come in singing “Happy Birthday” and what’s this? My gifts‼ Woop Woop! A beautiful lavender potted plant, a box of chocolates, a gorgeous top and a beautifully written note in a card. Aww‼ I was so touched.

It was 4.00 pm. SO many things to do! 8 hours to go before I get a hunchback and need a walking stick! I rushed to the temple (another sign of old age?) and made a few calls on the way to fix plans for the night. I hadn’t a clue where we would be going, who would be coming and what I would be wearing! Ok no, I did have a clue about the last bit. I found peace at the temple. Prayed and thanked God for everything He’s given me so far. I truly was grateful.

I woke up smiling. I loved the sound of 8^th May. I loved how the previous night (errm morning had ended). We bowled like maniacs and laughed half our guts out. Darsh and I had sore throats from the fake Brit accent we had put on most of the night. Happy to entertain people on the bus ride home.

Yes! Gutterballs‼ Darsh and I made the perfect team. We had won the second round (backwards‼) :-D A quick photograph with the bouncer, a quick groove to Sean Paul and an even quicker round of photographs later, we were ready to call it a night..errm day (it was 3.00 am)

Oh my God‼ Is that a cake?? I couldn’t believe my eyes! Aww! My friends had a cake for me! I was so pleasantly surprised and elated at the same time, I couldn’t help bouncing around (Gajare,2010) with happiness!

Annnnd it’s midnight! We were on the 105 to Airport Bowl and my silver had arrived on the bus ride to the bowling alley. Memorable indeed! Lovely cards and a cheesy (but cute) “Birthday Girl” badge ,  hugs, kisses and a barrage of phone calls. :-D

Click. Click. Pose. Pose. I was ready to leave for the bowling alley. Darsh had styled my look and how‼ :-* for her. BTW, she looked like a million bucks as well! 

Friday, the 7^th. It’s my birthday weekend‼ Darsh had already started wishing me. In fact, I was woken up with “Get out of bed. Only 14 and a 1/2 hours to go‼” That made an impact…2 hours later :-P

Ok I feel better now. I can breathe. The past 48 hours had been unforgettable indeed. A long , nonstop party, wonderful friends and a lifetime supply of memories. Who cares about being 25? That’s not so bad! I know I’m never going to be 30 because WE (looking up threateningly at my friend above) have a new deal (quoting Joey Tribbiani again).

TD