CLANDESTINE’S DAY OUT AT THE IPLFW – Volume 1

Follow my blog with bloglovin
Clandestine Cigarettes proudly presents….*Drum Roll* ….a detailed account of the IPLFW‼ *Applause*. We went, we saw, we came away with mixed feelings. Yes we were tres happy to have been invited by our good friends, the Mapxencars, who were showing their collection, for the first time ever, on foreign shores. Yes, we loved the fact that the Indian fashion industry seemed to be getting bigger and (wish I could say better) bolder in terms of experimenting with a foreign market and trying to make its presence felt with minimal press coverage and media buzz. We liked the fact that a prime location in the heart of the city (Holborn, Southampton Row) was chosen as the venue of the first ever season of the Indian Premier London Fashion Week (actually 3 days). And finally, it was admirable that such a new body of the fashion industry was giving young, fledgling designers the chance to expand their wings and capture an international audience even before their teething stage in India had ended. Two thumbs up for courage and a pat on the back for encouraging new talent. So here’s what we thought about the whole event (starting with, of course, the Mapxecars‼) and then the rest of the day at the Bloomsbury Ballroom, Victoria House, Southampton Row, London.

mapxecaRS by Riddhi & Siddhi

These identical twin sisters are as different as chalk and cheese when it comes to personal style and personalities (for lack of a better word). But as a team, they’re perfect together. They understand each other’s design language and give each other enough creative space so that ultimately, as a label, the mapxencaRS come up with something they believe in and love! That is the commitment that was blatantly on display at the IPLFW GenNext show.

The sisters looked to one of the world's most renowned architects - Daniel Libeskind - for inspiration. A little background on the architect for the uninitiated - some of Daniel's best work includes such symbolic structures as the Jewish Museum in Berlin, Imperial War Museum in Manchester, the Spiral extension to the V & A Museum in London and master development of WTC.

The mapxencaRS used the theory of deconstruction (or what they called “deconstructionism…WHAAT‼ C’mon sistahs! That’s not even a word) and gave it a twist in fashion language through garment construction and draping techniques. Result? A very interesting play of seams twisted and stitched down to form mindboggling structures of lines and curves (good theme interpretation, innit?) Their palette comprised black in combination with grays, electric blue and a sprinkling of a range of pinks. The metallic edge (that defines Daniel’s work) was provided by silver.

The entire collection was cohesive in terms of theme interpretation. Kudos to them for maintaining harmony in the elements of design and experimenting with various construction techniques! However, maybe there was too much of a good thing in the collection? Too many elements together crowded the tiny area in the mini dresses. Additionally, there was one panel too many in some of the ensembles. However, the simple silhouette saved the day.

I have to make a special mention of the deadly diva that Siddhi was on ramp. Totally overshadowed the models! And Riddhi’s personality shone through the tiny black dress and engulfed the ramp atmosphere. Such a pleasure to watch these girls on ramp! A breath of fresh air when compared to the jeans-sneakers clad designers taking a bow at the end of a show while furiously chewing on gum.

After the show, the mapxencaRS gave us the chance to see them in action at their stall. Interacting with buyers, networking with potential clients, discussing business matters and generally being the entrepreneurs and proud owners of an already successful label. Gave us great pleasure to see our goofy friends from college transformed into serious business partners and we couldn’t help but be happy for their success.

Keep up the good work nos amies! We’re proud of you girls!

TD*DG

The thoughts of a wannabe Fashion Critic

I woke up this morning and decided it was going to be a great day!  The sunlight poured in through every crevice and bounced off my black patent heels. The Miss Sixty dress I was going to wear that evening was laid out neatly beside the “Bitten” by Sarah Jessica Parker jacket that went so well with it! A leisurely shower and the customary steaming mug of coffee later, I started to get dressed. It was 3.00 pm and I was an hour early (for the first time ever!). But I couldn’t wait to get out of the house and be on the move. 

The thrill of watching a London College of Fashion (LCF) grad show was giving me wheels beneath my feet. I walked with a spring in my step and felt a strange sense of anticipation and restlessness. The BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology students were graduating and I had been invited by a friend to witness the debut of tomorrow’s Chanels and Schiaparellis (or should I say McQueens and McCartneys?) 

The show was due to begin at 5.00 pm and I found myself at the doors to the university an hour earlier! Why Tejasvi! This is a major improvement for someone who arrived an hour late for her first ever job interview! Anyhoo, after an hour of waiting patiently (which required me to summon all the strength I didn’t know I had) we were ushered into the Rootstein Hopkins Space – the venue for the fashion show. People poured into the hall by the dozen and took their seats in less than 5 minutes (I know! :O) After the usual “Switch off your mobile phones” announcement, the lights were dimmed and there was a slight murmur in the audience. People shifted in their seats, a few whispers flew around the room and a couple of mobile phones vibrated audibly. But once Chicane blasted through the speakers, all sings of restlessness and impatience disappeared. The catwalk lit up with focus lights and out strutted the models one by one, their strides matching the rhythm of the beats. Here are a few of my personal observations from the show (in no particular order):

1. Indian model are leagues ahead of the western ones! In terms of body language, poise, walk, ramp attitude, the body itself and the way they customise and change their walk and posture according to the outfit they wear to better enhance the elements of that particular outfit. They take the business of “modelling” very seriously! After watching the weak, expressionless zombies on catwalk today, I feel proud to have been associated with the Indian modelling industry, if only for a short while.

2. Even models have cellulite‼ Yes it’s true. So don’t worry about the slight dimples on your thighs, girls! Chin up and pull out those shorts for the summer. You’ve got nothing to be embarrassed about!

3. LCF is no great shakes. NIFT is as good, probably better, in the education imparted and the quality of students it churns our year after year. Some of the collections were so poorly finished, I wanted to cry for the designer! At one point, I distinctly remember having a strong urge to grab the garment off the catwalk and sit down with a needle and thread for a long session of hemming and slip stitches! I think the NIFT professors are doing as good a job and we NIFTians should be very proud of our roots.

4. Watch out for Trisha Saklecha, my friend and an upcoming fashion designer. One of the most brilliant young designers I’ve had the good fortune to meet. Her collection made a small part of me want to go back to the drawing board – a very small part of me :) 

5. Although a majority of the show comprised low quality fabric and garment finishing, not to mention average designs and cheap accessories, the remainder of the show gave me the chance to witness some outstanding garment construction and use of fabric. Now that’s what I expected to see more of.

6. We Indians could take a page out of the fashion industry’s book here. The show started promptly at 5.00 pm, it was crisply managed and well organised, everyone followed the rules and there was no squabbling for seats or fighting over someone having stepped on your foot. They said it would last an hour and lo and behold! I found myself being ushered out the door at 6.05 pm. Impressive‼

7. I was aghast at the poor hair and makeup and the even worse lingerie of the models. Did no one tell them about stick-on silicon bras and nude thongs? A wedgie is not something I want to see on the catwalk!

8. Can I make a quick mention about the fabulous music used in the show? This time, a very big part of me wanted to jump out on the runway and join the models.

9. Looks like exaggerated shoulders and hips are here to stay.

10. Punk, studs, rivets, leather and bling just don’t work any more. Out the window I say!

11. Plaid – in any combination, size and weave – is done to death. Over and out.

12. Unexpected seams, pleats and draped construction are the direction garments need to be taken it. Gives a simple silhouette an interesting edge.

13. Go suede and chiffon‼ We could definitely see more of these fabrics.

14. Peek-a-boo elements are slowly creeping into simple styles for a touch of mischief.

15. Whatever happened to “dressing for the occasion”? There was a guy in denim shorts and trainers at the show today – IN THE FRONT ROW‼ No, that’s not cool!

16. Muddy, murky, dirtied versions of pastel colours are the hues to watch out for. So much more interesting than the done-to-death tones we see everywhere. 

I walked out with an inescapable sense of disappointment. As I munched on a tuna sandwich, I couldn’t help but wonder which of the designers from today would take a bow at the London Fashion Week soon! Hopefully I can write about that too, on a more professional scale!

P.S: Missed you Darshana – my fellow blogger and the other half of Clandestine Cigarettes.   

TD