Gomez-Gracia : the brain behind the brand

Classic with a rock ‘n roll twist. Good girl gone bad. Effortless transition from day time chic to twilight diva. What am I talking about here? No, it’s not the introduction to a new rock star on the block (although it very well might have been!) Gomez-Gracia entered the British fashion industry with a bang and before London had time to say “Hello?” it created a stir of sorts with regular features in Drapers, red carpet appearances and a presence in some of the best stores in the UK and the US.

So imagine my excitement when Patricia (the creator and designer of Gomez-Gracia) agreed to give me 30 minutes of her precious time in the middle of a busy sales season to let me see the mind behind la mode!

Let’s back up a little. So while Gomez-Gracia’s steady rise to fashion Everest is apparent, what is the story behind this honest, no pretences brand? It is as sweet, simple and honest as the creator herself. Patricia’s tryst with destiny began as a young University student in the United States of America in 1998/99 when a tiny handbag-making venture with a friend struck a chord and brought in popularity and the realization of her true calling. The friend eventually made an exit, but Patricia stuck on and expanded the venture to include T-shirts and jeans with the same hand embroidery and beading detail that made the bags popular. "However, I realised that although I had the talent, I needed technical expertise to truly succeed in this industry." This subsequently led to the big move to London, work experiences with Julien McDonald and Alexander McQueen and ultimately the birth of Gomez-Gracia.

The lovely Miss Patricia Gomez-Gracia with her favourite piece from the SS11 collection

London, to Patricia, is representative of a cultural potpourri where everyone is not only welcome but also blends in easily and makes it their home. Of course, the fact that it is one of the important fashion capitals of the world is an added bonus.  Therefore, when the time came to make a decision regarding the birthplace of her dream, London was the obvious choice - not her hometown Miami, Florida. "I wanted the tag of a 'British brand' when I entered the US  market with Gomez-Gracia so as to have a better reception as opposed to just another American brand" she admits candidly. And now, with the latest SS11 collection, Gomez-Gracia is not only fast capturing the UK market, but also creating a mini ripple in Europe with orders from Paris. It’s only a matter of time before the European market is abuzz with this British contemporary brand for the uber confident woman.

And here with one of my favourite pieces from the collection
(psst..she's also wearing her creation..beautiful huh!!)

So what is it about the present collection that is special? In the words of the designer herself, "It’s the 'wow' factor that is the USP of this collection". Targeted at the sexy, saucy, confident woman, the SS11 collection promises luxurious silk jerseys and light-as-air cottons. As I run my hand along the surface of a gorgeous jersey dress, I think of the most delicious tiramisu that simply melts in the mouth. Bizarre analogy, I know, but fitting nonetheless! Rock n roll accessories are combined with form-fitted silhouettes while drape detail is beautifully used to create unique textures on the garment surface. The colour palette is the cherry on the cake with classy corals used in combination with blacks, whites and shimmer. Makes me wonder where she derives her inspiration from! According to her, it’s day-to-day life that inspires her. Could be a stunning photograph, fabric texture, architecture or just plain colour! Guess it also helps that Patricia reads a lot and keeps abreast with the world of art and fashion.

Aah Coral!! 

A part of the SS11 collection 

As I watch her rearrange the garments on the rail so the visual display correctly brings out the nuances of the collection, I can’t help but be impressed with her dedication to the brand. Here’s the passion that maketh “The Brand”! So Clandestine Cigarettes wishes Gomez-Gracia the very best and hopefully, one day soon, when it would have captured every by-lane of the fashion world, we’d have the honour of another meeting  and maybe, just maybe, walk away with a free dress ;-)

Much Love,

TD for CC

Memoirs of a French Poser

I closed my eyes and went back to 2006. The streets of Cuffe Parade, Mumbai that led to the classroom of Alliance Francaise in GD Somani school. “Je m’appelle Tejasvi. J’habite a Mumbai. Je suis etudiante.” I smiled. It’s funny how things always make sense in retrospect. One may not realize it right then, but there is always a plan, a bigger picture. Who knew the casual French language classes I took four years ago would one day come in handy when Egomark -the company I interned with- gave me the opportunity to travel to the city of my dreams! How many times had I imagined strolling down the streets of Paris and sipping café-au-lait at a corner shop while watching the beret-sporting junta pass by? How often had I dreamt of visiting Chanel’s first shop and trotting down la rue something-or-the-other in Louboutins? And I’ve lost count of the different scenarios in which I could fake the language! The captain’s sudden “Bienvenue a Paris” broke me from my reverie.

Ahem...The Business class

I shifted in my seat and checked to see that I had my passport and documentation within easy access. I alighted and immediately took a deep breath of the French air. Aah! I didn’t smell pain-au-chocolat or fresh butter croissants. But I did smell a dream coming true :-)

Gare du Nord 

The streets outside La Gare du Nord were as busy as I imagined Paris to be. The world (to use a line from Shawshank Redemption) seemed to have gone and gotten itself in a great big hurry! All I could hear around me was “zis iz ze zoo zee zish”. 

Champs Elysees

I saw a guy with a thin linear moustache cycle past me. The traffic rules were completely opposite to those of the UK (and India). I smiled again. It was all I expected it to be.  I went to the information desk for directions to the famous Metro that would take me to where the trade show was being held. This time I was surprised. I’d heard so much about the rude and unhelpful nature of the French. But here was this guy going out of his way to help me get to the Metro! I thanked him (in French) and mentally thanked London Underground and the Mumbai locals that helped me understand even complex train networks like the one in Paris. The 3 days I spent there were all I had hoped my first trip to the city of my dreams would be! Starting with the trade show (which is what I was in Paris for) gave me the chance to interact with some interesting buyers from the industry.

Now, does THAT even need a caption!

The Eiffel Tower left me awestruck with tears streaming down my face as I struggled to fathom what it was about the thousand-foot phallus (as described by Dan Brown in The Da Vinci Code) that evoked all these feelings in people.

Champs Elysees again

I strolled down the Champs Elysees taking in the sights of the flagship stores of all my favourite brands.

L'arc de Triomphe

L’arc de Triomphe brought back images of the same in my French text books and the visit to the Louvre rounded off my maiden trip to this fantastic city!! It was perfect! I talked the talk and I most definitely walked the walk!

Le Louvre!!

As I boarded the Eurostar to Kings Cross St.Pancras, London, I couldn’t help but thank God for small mercies. Not only was I living in London, but also travelled to the Haute Couture capital on work! Was I lucky or just plain blessed? I flipped through French Vogue as I smiled to myself (for the umpteenth time)  wondering when I would set foot on Italian ground ;-)

Can't get enough of La Tour Eiffel

Much Love

TD for CC

Bisous!

Does every end lead to a new beginning??

Now, this is the first post which is coming straight from my phone! Couldn't wait to get home to write about what I'm feeling at this point!

Two and a half months passed by in a click.. That's what I'm feeling now! Where? At a place we call The VATICAN.. The London headquarters of the heritage luxury fashion label, Burberry! Yes, my resume shines with the presence of Burberry on it. I've touched, handled and worked with the Spring Summer 2011 collection samples before the ramp saw it, before Vogue saw it, before the world saw IT!! Christopher Bailey was a part of my day to day conversations and not just a mere occurrence in magazines or internet! Like, "Christopher might come down to the showroom to choose the jackets for the Milan show", or "Christopher is just back from New York and is looking for that particular shoe for the walk through!!" Whoa..

Source: www.burberrycareers.com

And today I am very close to saying goodbye to this prestigious institution.. I'm heading towards the end of my work contract! :(

I can't forget the first day when I stepped into this Vatican, elevated with thrill and excitement; the first time I set foot in the showroom, gazing at the accessories wanting to pinch myself to believe and be assured, "Yes its true, I am looking at the Spring Summer 2011 collection, one full year in advance!!" 

The amplifications of my heartbeats, when my hands first browsed through the Bible: the look book for the season went beyond control. My eyes sparkled when I was issued an ID card on a Burberry header! I so don't want to give it back.

Excusez moi for the bad image quality!

The Visual Merchandising, the mannequins, the Prorsum, London and Brit, the fabrics and trims, the ambience and music, a chance to flip through the Look Book on the fancy iPad, only cried out LUXURY! Wait, luxury doesn't end here, a first hand experience on helping the Prince and Princess of Bahrain shop for this collection (which hasn't even hit the ramp, leave alone the stores), who not only bought Burberry for themselves but also for their unborn baby...Ahem! Does anyone have a better example of luxury? ;)

THAT is the Vatican aka HFH!

Well, in a nutshell, everyone who's making a living from and for fashion will yearn to be associated with a label like Burberry. I only dreamt of being a part of maybe Burberry, Dior, Chanel or Prada before I came to London and let's be honest, London will seldom let you down! You get what you dream of!!

Confession: I don't want to say Good Bye, maybe bubye for now sounds much better. See you soon HFH (that's how the infamous Burberry, HorseFerry House is addressed!) ;)

Much Love 

DG for CC
x

Fashion Topics

La Mode, Movida and more..

What?

A private fashion show featuring young, upcoming designers. A debut of sorts.

Where and when?

Movida – A prestigious Celebrity and Private Members Nightclub in the heart of London i.e., Argyll Street, off Oxford Street. Thursday 17 June 2010.

Movida

Why?

Well, it’s important to applaud and encourage budding talent!

What did CC wear?

(Now don’t roll your eyes. This is an important question! You’ve gotta be well dressed if you’re invited to cover the event. Also, we like them shoes, around which we plan our outfits *winks*)

CC, Outside Movida

What was CC’s opinion of the show?

(Are you surprised we feel the need to express our opinion? Well, that’s our job, innit?! Also, that’s what we were invited there for!  *Wide grin*)

The venue worked. It was the right backdrop for a young, vibrant show (although the *ahem* slightly expensive drinks did shake us up a little bit). The compere worked. She provided the right amount of humour and spontaneous wisecracks that the event required. It also helped that she was dressed to kill! The music was the clear winner again! They always get it right. Always.

The models required some fine tuning. But then, when have we been satisfied with the models. *sigh* Bring back the Jesse Randhawas and the Bhavna Sharmas!!

Anyhoo, getting back to the fashion aspect of it all. The designers deserved a pat on their backs for a complete collection (shoes, makeup, hairstyles etc al). The show started with a boom and out walked the models in cupcake printed tutus and balloon shorts and pretty dresses. 

Chantal Gibbs-Jones

Chantal Gibbs-Jones

The collection was cohesive in terms of theme and infused some humour into the clothes. Of course, if it weren’t for the show-opening model, it would have lacked that zing. She came out with an air of arrogance blended with innocence. Good job girl! Chantal Gibbs-Jones, the designer took a bow amidst thunderous applause. Wish the cupcake print was used in a more creative way though. The collection left us asking some questions. Although overall, great going!

The rest of the evening gave us the chance to witness some innovative ideas and some unsuccessful attempts. A special mention has to be made of Kerry Knowles. Now this young lady, the recipient of several awards including Best Womenswear Designer of the Year 2007 at the UK Urban Fashion Awards, blew us away by her concept. Her collection (called Permutation) revolved around the concept of clothing that could be worn by women and men, with certain changes in the way it’s worn.

Kerry Knowles

Kerry Knowles

When the collection was introduced, we were all intrigued and started craning our necks to see what we were in for. We weren’t too disappointed with this one. Extremely interesting and she appeared to have given it a lot of grey matter. There were male and female models to do complete justice to the theme. After all, we had to see how a man’s vest could be worn by a woman or how a skirt would find place on the male form! So thumbs up! We like you Kerry!

The other designers showed lingerie and more womenswear collections.

Leeanne Ripley-Garret

Leeanne Ripley-Garret with her finale ensemble

Rae-Emily Smith's "My Fair Lady Lingerie"

All in all, a compact, well organized evening of drinks, fashion and lots of networking.

Much love,

CC

CC's not-so-clandestine narcissism

CLANDESTINE’S DAY OUT AT THE IPLFW – Volume 3

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Yes yes…before you wear a stunned expression at the sudden realisation of the Clandestine Cigarettes as to the third (and final) volume of the IPLFW series, let me just say it is you who prompted this delay. Our throats are sore from asking for comments on the blog. Our fingers refuse to type out “read, comment, follow” any more and our minds can’t seem to come up with any more ways of saying “comment on the blog please!” Instead, we get comments and feedback and reviews and mails in our Facebook inboxes and email ids *rolls eyes*. What good is that, I ask! Anyhoo, since my brain is growing cobwebs from not having written in eons, I decided to end my hibernation and finally brighten the CC page! So here goes, the grand finale of the IPLFW trilogy!! Woohoo! And I can proudly say, it is definitely worth the wait.

Presenting…a rendezvous with GayatriKhanna, Rocky S and LinaTipnis!!! Yes, we met them. Yes, we touched those beautiful clothes. Yes, they gave us a minute of their precious time (actually 30) and took us through the tedious, yet fulfilling process of getting their designs ready for the IPLFW.

Here are excerpts from the Gayatri Khanna and Rocky S interviews and a short review of the understated elegance of Lina Tipnis’ show.

Gayatri Khanna

A simply clad lady walked past us and it took us a minute to realise it was the lady herself! The humility was refreshing (especially since some of the young guns have an inexplicable air of arrogance!). We walked up to her, introduced ourselves and found her to be extremely warm and friendly. All we had to do was ask to be shown a couple of samples and that happened to be the equivalent of an “open sesame” to the entire range of the season, complete with inspiration, mock-ups, fabric detail and design team orientation! Whoa!!

So her collection was a wonderful mix of deep tones and prints that were variegated and experimented upon through use of motifs and surface ornamentation techniques. Divided into three segments based on main print ideas, the range consisted of fantastic permutations and combinations of the dominant motif. Therefore, a geometric motif in a tessellation print was turned and twisted around. In certain places, the lines were picked up with sequins and beads, in other cases colour variations added the necessary highlight. Orange and brown, red-burgundy-black and finally purples were the main stories.

A Beautiful play of colours by Gayatri Khanna; psst.. That is Gayatri herself showing CC each garment!!

Cut-work, drape, play of seams and surface technique experimentation were the selling points of the show. What stole the show, however, was the use of pure silk jersey. Aah! The lush feel of the fabric!! I felt like resting my head against it and letting it take me into a deep, peaceful slumber! Kudos to Gayatri Khanna for refusing to bow to the market dynamics which most designers fall prey to. When one doesn’t let costs threaten the quality of the design, one is indeed on the right path. (Pardon the sentimental discourse, but I get a little carried away when it comes to garment detail). Ms.Khanna is famous for her “western” designs, but what was commendable was how effortlessly she blended her roots with her inspirations. The result? A stunning collection that was the perfect representation of an Indian designer’s work in the “west.”

Cut-work tunic by Gayatri Khanna 

It was a pleasure to meet you Gayatri! Keep up the sincere work :-)

Rocky S

What comes to mind when you think of Rocky S? Funk, jazz, confidence, Bollywood and femininity with an underlying desire to cross over to androgyny? His collection lived up to all these expectations and managed to surprise at the same time. A cool dude that he is, his collection reflected some of his charisma and brought out the subtle glamour of the movie world he so proudly belongs to. Utterly approachable and yet slightly intimidating at the same time, Rocky was extremely enthusiastic about the idea of his work being written about by the Clandestine Cigarettes. He gave us detailed answers  to all our questions and also shared his contact details in case we had any more questions. What a darling! (The next time please give us a free dress, Rocky!)

So Rocky’s collection revolved around the “authentic quintessence of lavishness”. In his own words, the collection was “an affluent zenith of rich and sumptuous lehengas, graceful saris, chudidhar kurtas with a modern twist and lavish sherwanis”. It was quite evidently based on varied inspirations from around the world and very quite well received from what we could see. One more season at the IPLFW, and it will be lapped up by the buyers.

Rocky was apparently approached by Idea Weavers (the event coordinators) and by his own admission, instantly agreed to be part of it. And why not? The perks are fantastic global exposure and the chance to spread your wings in the international market. Plus since there is a huge demand for Indian clothes in the so called “western” world, this is a wonderful platform to connect with them on a personal level. Good thinking Rocky! And given a chance, he would love to participate in London Fashion Week as well. Who wouldn’t! Think of all the buyers under one roof!

So thumbs up to Rocky S for a successful stink at the IPLFW! Good going man!

Lina Tipnis

What a show! What a collection! Made us forget about the pathetic models and the completely immersed our minds in the Turkish delights that the range was inspired from. 

So with Istanbul as theme, one would expect yawn inducing details, a predictable palette and a tired-looking range of blues and whites. But she took Istanbul and turned it around on its head. What followed was a refreshing array of gaucho pants, draped constructions stitched into place, small, fine detailing, beautifully placed embroidery and surface ornamentation and a cool summer palette consisting beige, off white, gold, teal, brown and of course turquoise with red accents. Gold criss-cross patterned footwear added the perfect finishing touch to the simple, minimalistic collection. It was much admired and extremely well received by the London audience. It had to be! It was a wonderful end to the perfect day at the IPLFW!

We left from there assured of a good future to the Indian fashion industry in the “west”. The new designers showed ample promise; the veterans paved the way for a secure place in the London market. Here’s to being invited to more such events!!

Much love,

CC

CLANDESTINE’S DAY OUT AT THE IPLFW – Volume 2

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GenNext and more…

The rest of the GenNext show was mediocre (and I’m being lenient). Some of the garments displayed took our breath away by the sheer lack of design sense while some others comprised such cheap fabric and surface ornamentation that we were left appalled (and slightly irritated). Ok, to be fair, there was a tiny part of the show that did feature wonderful style trends that had a lot of potential to be tapped. Let me take a quick moment to mention two designers (not GenNext) who not only showed fabulous collections but also were a pleasure to interact with after the show. Warm, welcoming, humble and extremely patient with all the questions and small talk we put them through…I’m kidding! Clandestine Cigarettes make for wonderful company‼ Anyhoo, I hope they remain the same a few years down the line when they’re hotshot designers showing in Selfridges.

So Ankyra by Priyanka Kakkar was a treat to the eyes starved for fine design sensibility. TEAL TEAL TEAL! She took the hottest colour of the blue-green palette and used it in stunning fabric to retain (and nourish) the richness of the colour. Velvets provided the classic touch to an already royal collection and there was an interesting combination of surface ornamentation and draping, of creative pattern making and play of seams in simple shift silhouettes.

She made a smart decision to avoid accessories altogether. The garments were left to speak for themselves and that’s what was required!

Two thumbs up to Priyanka Kakkar! I guess the NIFT language spoke loud and clear (errm yeah I forgot to mention the tiny fact about her being a NIFT Delhi alumnus). 

Raman Vij was an absolute darling! Shy and humble, and one of THE most brilliant knitwear designers we’ve met (and we know what we’re talking about, as ahem…we’re knitwear designers from NIFT Mumbai ourselves :D) His flat knit structures had us wondering what commands he used on the knitwear machines to have them belt out such mindblowing knit-purl designs. He combined knits with woven fabric to create stunning patterns in (again) simple silhouettes. Get the drift guys? Keep the silhouette simple‼ Anyway, three cheers to Raman Vij. 

Some of the other labels on display were Soltee (wannabe exquisite), Timsy (wannabe western…why Timsy, why?), Arti Vijaygupta (Nice garments, no cohesion in the collection..ergo, not a “collection”) and Mohit Dochania (Kitsch! Manish Arora! Mohammad Ali Road fabric! Bhendi Bazaar trims! But an honest effort...:-D)

Soltee, IPLFW May 2010

Left: One of the looks from Timsy's collection.

Above: Spotted a HOT footwear trend at the same show.

ArtiVijay Gupta and Mohit at IPLFW, May 2010

I wanted to write so much more! I wanted to write the quintessential fashion critique analysing in detail the designs, the shows, the models, the music, the style trends spotted and the merchandise on display. I wanted to talk more about the guests, the organisation of the fashion event and the general management of the event held in what is considered one of the fashion capitals of the world. I wanted to tell you more about the designers and their inspirations and ideas. There was so much I wanted to share with you about Clandestine’s day at the IPLFW but the one fact that stood out from the rest and blurred my objectivity toward the rest of the event is how Indian fashion is still struggling for an identity amongst all the so-called “evolved” fashion leaders of the global industry. We went to the IPLFW and saw some marvellous talent and some who were trying to make a mark. We saw some who were proud of their roots and refused to buy into the “When in Rome” syndrome, and then some who tried their hand at western tailoring and ended up in no-man’s-land with neither western nor Indian construction/elements of design/fabric/styling/design interpretation and execution. We couldn’t help shake off the feeling that the Indian fashion industry should stop trying to fight for acceptance in the western world. We have all the talent and resources we need (probably more) and we can definitely hold our own in the global fashion industry.

TD*DG