Gomez-Gracia : the brain behind the brand

Classic with a rock ‘n roll twist. Good girl gone bad. Effortless transition from day time chic to twilight diva. What am I talking about here? No, it’s not the introduction to a new rock star on the block (although it very well might have been!) Gomez-Gracia entered the British fashion industry with a bang and before London had time to say “Hello?” it created a stir of sorts with regular features in Drapers, red carpet appearances and a presence in some of the best stores in the UK and the US.

So imagine my excitement when Patricia (the creator and designer of Gomez-Gracia) agreed to give me 30 minutes of her precious time in the middle of a busy sales season to let me see the mind behind la mode!

Let’s back up a little. So while Gomez-Gracia’s steady rise to fashion Everest is apparent, what is the story behind this honest, no pretences brand? It is as sweet, simple and honest as the creator herself. Patricia’s tryst with destiny began as a young University student in the United States of America in 1998/99 when a tiny handbag-making venture with a friend struck a chord and brought in popularity and the realization of her true calling. The friend eventually made an exit, but Patricia stuck on and expanded the venture to include T-shirts and jeans with the same hand embroidery and beading detail that made the bags popular. "However, I realised that although I had the talent, I needed technical expertise to truly succeed in this industry." This subsequently led to the big move to London, work experiences with Julien McDonald and Alexander McQueen and ultimately the birth of Gomez-Gracia.

The lovely Miss Patricia Gomez-Gracia with her favourite piece from the SS11 collection

London, to Patricia, is representative of a cultural potpourri where everyone is not only welcome but also blends in easily and makes it their home. Of course, the fact that it is one of the important fashion capitals of the world is an added bonus.  Therefore, when the time came to make a decision regarding the birthplace of her dream, London was the obvious choice - not her hometown Miami, Florida. "I wanted the tag of a 'British brand' when I entered the US  market with Gomez-Gracia so as to have a better reception as opposed to just another American brand" she admits candidly. And now, with the latest SS11 collection, Gomez-Gracia is not only fast capturing the UK market, but also creating a mini ripple in Europe with orders from Paris. It’s only a matter of time before the European market is abuzz with this British contemporary brand for the uber confident woman.

And here with one of my favourite pieces from the collection
(psst..she's also wearing her creation..beautiful huh!!)

So what is it about the present collection that is special? In the words of the designer herself, "It’s the 'wow' factor that is the USP of this collection". Targeted at the sexy, saucy, confident woman, the SS11 collection promises luxurious silk jerseys and light-as-air cottons. As I run my hand along the surface of a gorgeous jersey dress, I think of the most delicious tiramisu that simply melts in the mouth. Bizarre analogy, I know, but fitting nonetheless! Rock n roll accessories are combined with form-fitted silhouettes while drape detail is beautifully used to create unique textures on the garment surface. The colour palette is the cherry on the cake with classy corals used in combination with blacks, whites and shimmer. Makes me wonder where she derives her inspiration from! According to her, it’s day-to-day life that inspires her. Could be a stunning photograph, fabric texture, architecture or just plain colour! Guess it also helps that Patricia reads a lot and keeps abreast with the world of art and fashion.

Aah Coral!! 

A part of the SS11 collection 

As I watch her rearrange the garments on the rail so the visual display correctly brings out the nuances of the collection, I can’t help but be impressed with her dedication to the brand. Here’s the passion that maketh “The Brand”! So Clandestine Cigarettes wishes Gomez-Gracia the very best and hopefully, one day soon, when it would have captured every by-lane of the fashion world, we’d have the honour of another meeting  and maybe, just maybe, walk away with a free dress ;-)

Much Love,

TD for CC

Does every end lead to a new beginning??

Now, this is the first post which is coming straight from my phone! Couldn't wait to get home to write about what I'm feeling at this point!

Two and a half months passed by in a click.. That's what I'm feeling now! Where? At a place we call The VATICAN.. The London headquarters of the heritage luxury fashion label, Burberry! Yes, my resume shines with the presence of Burberry on it. I've touched, handled and worked with the Spring Summer 2011 collection samples before the ramp saw it, before Vogue saw it, before the world saw IT!! Christopher Bailey was a part of my day to day conversations and not just a mere occurrence in magazines or internet! Like, "Christopher might come down to the showroom to choose the jackets for the Milan show", or "Christopher is just back from New York and is looking for that particular shoe for the walk through!!" Whoa..

Source: www.burberrycareers.com

And today I am very close to saying goodbye to this prestigious institution.. I'm heading towards the end of my work contract! :(

I can't forget the first day when I stepped into this Vatican, elevated with thrill and excitement; the first time I set foot in the showroom, gazing at the accessories wanting to pinch myself to believe and be assured, "Yes its true, I am looking at the Spring Summer 2011 collection, one full year in advance!!" 

The amplifications of my heartbeats, when my hands first browsed through the Bible: the look book for the season went beyond control. My eyes sparkled when I was issued an ID card on a Burberry header! I so don't want to give it back.

Excusez moi for the bad image quality!

The Visual Merchandising, the mannequins, the Prorsum, London and Brit, the fabrics and trims, the ambience and music, a chance to flip through the Look Book on the fancy iPad, only cried out LUXURY! Wait, luxury doesn't end here, a first hand experience on helping the Prince and Princess of Bahrain shop for this collection (which hasn't even hit the ramp, leave alone the stores), who not only bought Burberry for themselves but also for their unborn baby...Ahem! Does anyone have a better example of luxury? ;)

THAT is the Vatican aka HFH!

Well, in a nutshell, everyone who's making a living from and for fashion will yearn to be associated with a label like Burberry. I only dreamt of being a part of maybe Burberry, Dior, Chanel or Prada before I came to London and let's be honest, London will seldom let you down! You get what you dream of!!

Confession: I don't want to say Good Bye, maybe bubye for now sounds much better. See you soon HFH (that's how the infamous Burberry, HorseFerry House is addressed!) ;)

Much Love 

DG for CC
x

Fashion Topics

CLANDESTINE’S DAY OUT AT THE IPLFW – Volume 3

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Yes yes…before you wear a stunned expression at the sudden realisation of the Clandestine Cigarettes as to the third (and final) volume of the IPLFW series, let me just say it is you who prompted this delay. Our throats are sore from asking for comments on the blog. Our fingers refuse to type out “read, comment, follow” any more and our minds can’t seem to come up with any more ways of saying “comment on the blog please!” Instead, we get comments and feedback and reviews and mails in our Facebook inboxes and email ids *rolls eyes*. What good is that, I ask! Anyhoo, since my brain is growing cobwebs from not having written in eons, I decided to end my hibernation and finally brighten the CC page! So here goes, the grand finale of the IPLFW trilogy!! Woohoo! And I can proudly say, it is definitely worth the wait.

Presenting…a rendezvous with GayatriKhanna, Rocky S and LinaTipnis!!! Yes, we met them. Yes, we touched those beautiful clothes. Yes, they gave us a minute of their precious time (actually 30) and took us through the tedious, yet fulfilling process of getting their designs ready for the IPLFW.

Here are excerpts from the Gayatri Khanna and Rocky S interviews and a short review of the understated elegance of Lina Tipnis’ show.

Gayatri Khanna

A simply clad lady walked past us and it took us a minute to realise it was the lady herself! The humility was refreshing (especially since some of the young guns have an inexplicable air of arrogance!). We walked up to her, introduced ourselves and found her to be extremely warm and friendly. All we had to do was ask to be shown a couple of samples and that happened to be the equivalent of an “open sesame” to the entire range of the season, complete with inspiration, mock-ups, fabric detail and design team orientation! Whoa!!

So her collection was a wonderful mix of deep tones and prints that were variegated and experimented upon through use of motifs and surface ornamentation techniques. Divided into three segments based on main print ideas, the range consisted of fantastic permutations and combinations of the dominant motif. Therefore, a geometric motif in a tessellation print was turned and twisted around. In certain places, the lines were picked up with sequins and beads, in other cases colour variations added the necessary highlight. Orange and brown, red-burgundy-black and finally purples were the main stories.

A Beautiful play of colours by Gayatri Khanna; psst.. That is Gayatri herself showing CC each garment!!

Cut-work, drape, play of seams and surface technique experimentation were the selling points of the show. What stole the show, however, was the use of pure silk jersey. Aah! The lush feel of the fabric!! I felt like resting my head against it and letting it take me into a deep, peaceful slumber! Kudos to Gayatri Khanna for refusing to bow to the market dynamics which most designers fall prey to. When one doesn’t let costs threaten the quality of the design, one is indeed on the right path. (Pardon the sentimental discourse, but I get a little carried away when it comes to garment detail). Ms.Khanna is famous for her “western” designs, but what was commendable was how effortlessly she blended her roots with her inspirations. The result? A stunning collection that was the perfect representation of an Indian designer’s work in the “west.”

Cut-work tunic by Gayatri Khanna 

It was a pleasure to meet you Gayatri! Keep up the sincere work :-)

Rocky S

What comes to mind when you think of Rocky S? Funk, jazz, confidence, Bollywood and femininity with an underlying desire to cross over to androgyny? His collection lived up to all these expectations and managed to surprise at the same time. A cool dude that he is, his collection reflected some of his charisma and brought out the subtle glamour of the movie world he so proudly belongs to. Utterly approachable and yet slightly intimidating at the same time, Rocky was extremely enthusiastic about the idea of his work being written about by the Clandestine Cigarettes. He gave us detailed answers  to all our questions and also shared his contact details in case we had any more questions. What a darling! (The next time please give us a free dress, Rocky!)

So Rocky’s collection revolved around the “authentic quintessence of lavishness”. In his own words, the collection was “an affluent zenith of rich and sumptuous lehengas, graceful saris, chudidhar kurtas with a modern twist and lavish sherwanis”. It was quite evidently based on varied inspirations from around the world and very quite well received from what we could see. One more season at the IPLFW, and it will be lapped up by the buyers.

Rocky was apparently approached by Idea Weavers (the event coordinators) and by his own admission, instantly agreed to be part of it. And why not? The perks are fantastic global exposure and the chance to spread your wings in the international market. Plus since there is a huge demand for Indian clothes in the so called “western” world, this is a wonderful platform to connect with them on a personal level. Good thinking Rocky! And given a chance, he would love to participate in London Fashion Week as well. Who wouldn’t! Think of all the buyers under one roof!

So thumbs up to Rocky S for a successful stink at the IPLFW! Good going man!

Lina Tipnis

What a show! What a collection! Made us forget about the pathetic models and the completely immersed our minds in the Turkish delights that the range was inspired from. 

So with Istanbul as theme, one would expect yawn inducing details, a predictable palette and a tired-looking range of blues and whites. But she took Istanbul and turned it around on its head. What followed was a refreshing array of gaucho pants, draped constructions stitched into place, small, fine detailing, beautifully placed embroidery and surface ornamentation and a cool summer palette consisting beige, off white, gold, teal, brown and of course turquoise with red accents. Gold criss-cross patterned footwear added the perfect finishing touch to the simple, minimalistic collection. It was much admired and extremely well received by the London audience. It had to be! It was a wonderful end to the perfect day at the IPLFW!

We left from there assured of a good future to the Indian fashion industry in the “west”. The new designers showed ample promise; the veterans paved the way for a secure place in the London market. Here’s to being invited to more such events!!

Much love,

CC

CLANDESTINE’S DAY OUT AT THE IPLFW – Volume 1

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Clandestine Cigarettes proudly presents….*Drum Roll* ….a detailed account of the IPLFW‼ *Applause*. We went, we saw, we came away with mixed feelings. Yes we were tres happy to have been invited by our good friends, the Mapxencars, who were showing their collection, for the first time ever, on foreign shores. Yes, we loved the fact that the Indian fashion industry seemed to be getting bigger and (wish I could say better) bolder in terms of experimenting with a foreign market and trying to make its presence felt with minimal press coverage and media buzz. We liked the fact that a prime location in the heart of the city (Holborn, Southampton Row) was chosen as the venue of the first ever season of the Indian Premier London Fashion Week (actually 3 days). And finally, it was admirable that such a new body of the fashion industry was giving young, fledgling designers the chance to expand their wings and capture an international audience even before their teething stage in India had ended. Two thumbs up for courage and a pat on the back for encouraging new talent. So here’s what we thought about the whole event (starting with, of course, the Mapxecars‼) and then the rest of the day at the Bloomsbury Ballroom, Victoria House, Southampton Row, London.

mapxecaRS by Riddhi & Siddhi

These identical twin sisters are as different as chalk and cheese when it comes to personal style and personalities (for lack of a better word). But as a team, they’re perfect together. They understand each other’s design language and give each other enough creative space so that ultimately, as a label, the mapxencaRS come up with something they believe in and love! That is the commitment that was blatantly on display at the IPLFW GenNext show.

The sisters looked to one of the world's most renowned architects - Daniel Libeskind - for inspiration. A little background on the architect for the uninitiated - some of Daniel's best work includes such symbolic structures as the Jewish Museum in Berlin, Imperial War Museum in Manchester, the Spiral extension to the V & A Museum in London and master development of WTC.

The mapxencaRS used the theory of deconstruction (or what they called “deconstructionism…WHAAT‼ C’mon sistahs! That’s not even a word) and gave it a twist in fashion language through garment construction and draping techniques. Result? A very interesting play of seams twisted and stitched down to form mindboggling structures of lines and curves (good theme interpretation, innit?) Their palette comprised black in combination with grays, electric blue and a sprinkling of a range of pinks. The metallic edge (that defines Daniel’s work) was provided by silver.

The entire collection was cohesive in terms of theme interpretation. Kudos to them for maintaining harmony in the elements of design and experimenting with various construction techniques! However, maybe there was too much of a good thing in the collection? Too many elements together crowded the tiny area in the mini dresses. Additionally, there was one panel too many in some of the ensembles. However, the simple silhouette saved the day.

I have to make a special mention of the deadly diva that Siddhi was on ramp. Totally overshadowed the models! And Riddhi’s personality shone through the tiny black dress and engulfed the ramp atmosphere. Such a pleasure to watch these girls on ramp! A breath of fresh air when compared to the jeans-sneakers clad designers taking a bow at the end of a show while furiously chewing on gum.

After the show, the mapxencaRS gave us the chance to see them in action at their stall. Interacting with buyers, networking with potential clients, discussing business matters and generally being the entrepreneurs and proud owners of an already successful label. Gave us great pleasure to see our goofy friends from college transformed into serious business partners and we couldn’t help but be happy for their success.

Keep up the good work nos amies! We’re proud of you girls!

TD*DG

The symptoms of Ageing

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I opened one eye at a time. The distant sound of a clock ticking in an otherwise silent room. Disorientation. Confusion. A mild ache in my bones. Stiff feet. Cold panic! I jumped out of bed and ran to the bathroom mirror. Do I see wrinkles?! Oh no‼ I took a quick look at the back of my hands. Oh my God‼ I see veins. Green, prominent, protruding and mocking me as if to say “You old hag!” Nooo‼ It’s not the 9^th of May! I can’t be 25‼ I’ve crossed over to the dark side now. I’m in the silver club and time seems to be flying at the speed of light! To quote Joey Tribbiani (F.R.I.E.N.D.S) , “Why God why! Why are you doing this to us!” Ok breathe. Of course I’m being a total drama queen, imagining wrinkles and visible veins! I’m turning into a hypochondriac! Wait, is hypochondria a sign of old age? Stop it Tej! Breathe again. Relax. Rewind to 48 hours earlier. Smile. :-)

It’s 6 am and we’re all gorging on delicious potato curry and rice. We’re all partied out and my feet still hurt from all the dancing and the 45 minute walk to Marble Arch for the night bus home.

Darshana’s making potato curry and rice and desperately trying to persuade me to eat and then go to bed. But I’m old and tire easily. I just want to change into comfortable pyjamas and go to bed.

Santosh in between hiccups says “My grandmother told me to think of a random number and match it to a letter in the alphabet. So when you have hiccups, the person whose name begins with that letter is thinking of you really hard!” It’s funny how such random, juvenile talk can take your mind off the long, tedious journey home. My feet still hurt. Damn those uncomfortable heels!

Oh when will the bus come?! It’s 2.47 am and N207 should be at the stop any time now. I’m still smiling from the lovely party and sulking over the aging process at the same time.

I’m in Miami Biiitch! Oh how I love this song! And this was the third time it was being played! Does the DJ know it’s my birthday? I check my watch and smile. It still IS my birthday‼ Woohoo! So what if there are only 15 minutes to go? I’m still on the border separating youth from wannabe youth. I look around and see Darsh doing the “goin down low” competition with Pinca. Oops! Pinca spilled her drink AND Darshana’s! Everyone else was having a great time and dancing away to the wonderful music! I loved how all my friends came together to celebrate. Overwhelming and extremely touching.

We’re late! We were supposed to be at the FunkyBuddha at 10 and were on the way to the tube station at 9.45 pm‼ But would that prevent us from posing for pictures at the bus stop? No sir! Out comes the camera. Pose. Click. Flash. Change of pose.

Anne and Tabea come in singing “Happy Birthday” and what’s this? My gifts‼ Woop Woop! A beautiful lavender potted plant, a box of chocolates, a gorgeous top and a beautifully written note in a card. Aww‼ I was so touched.

It was 4.00 pm. SO many things to do! 8 hours to go before I get a hunchback and need a walking stick! I rushed to the temple (another sign of old age?) and made a few calls on the way to fix plans for the night. I hadn’t a clue where we would be going, who would be coming and what I would be wearing! Ok no, I did have a clue about the last bit. I found peace at the temple. Prayed and thanked God for everything He’s given me so far. I truly was grateful.

I woke up smiling. I loved the sound of 8^th May. I loved how the previous night (errm morning had ended). We bowled like maniacs and laughed half our guts out. Darsh and I had sore throats from the fake Brit accent we had put on most of the night. Happy to entertain people on the bus ride home.

Yes! Gutterballs‼ Darsh and I made the perfect team. We had won the second round (backwards‼) :-D A quick photograph with the bouncer, a quick groove to Sean Paul and an even quicker round of photographs later, we were ready to call it a night..errm day (it was 3.00 am)

Oh my God‼ Is that a cake?? I couldn’t believe my eyes! Aww! My friends had a cake for me! I was so pleasantly surprised and elated at the same time, I couldn’t help bouncing around (Gajare,2010) with happiness!

Annnnd it’s midnight! We were on the 105 to Airport Bowl and my silver had arrived on the bus ride to the bowling alley. Memorable indeed! Lovely cards and a cheesy (but cute) “Birthday Girl” badge ,  hugs, kisses and a barrage of phone calls. :-D

Click. Click. Pose. Pose. I was ready to leave for the bowling alley. Darsh had styled my look and how‼ :-* for her. BTW, she looked like a million bucks as well! 

Friday, the 7^th. It’s my birthday weekend‼ Darsh had already started wishing me. In fact, I was woken up with “Get out of bed. Only 14 and a 1/2 hours to go‼” That made an impact…2 hours later :-P

Ok I feel better now. I can breathe. The past 48 hours had been unforgettable indeed. A long , nonstop party, wonderful friends and a lifetime supply of memories. Who cares about being 25? That’s not so bad! I know I’m never going to be 30 because WE (looking up threateningly at my friend above) have a new deal (quoting Joey Tribbiani again).

TD

Affair(s) to Remember...

The national express coaches are not just a mode of transport for me anymore, especially when it comes to the route M1. My usual companions on this route are a pair of headphones, my E63 and Youtube! Considering my past records of having missed the coaches by being late or by booking the wrong ticket and even worst by printing out an old expired ticket; it was a proud moment for me to have reached the coach station 15 minutes before the departure time.

Airports, coach stations, railway platforms; anything to do with picking up or seeing off has played cupid in my love life since day one. I guess it’s just the feeling of going away that pumps up all the love you ever had for your partner! Well, there I was, Coventry coach station, a place that always makes me think, ‘Oh how in love am I!’
 

The coach driver requested the passengers to fasten the seat belts and off we were! As I switched to my travel companions and lured myself to my latest obsession with ‘Aaj Din Chadiya’, I couldn’t get that face off my eyes, those eyes though hidden behind his Ray Bans made me speechless, the hug before I boarded the bus..! As the coach moved away from him, I felt uneasy at the prospect of leaving him behind. I shifted impatiently in my seat and gazed back from every possible angle to take one last look at his silhouette that faded away into the background.

As I passed the sheep rearing on calm fields with the bright clear sky above and with ‘Aaj Din Chadiya’ playing in a loop, I dreaded the thought of getting to London without him. Two hours twenty minutes later, after having crossed the borders of London, I smiled and looked around and told myself, “I miss him but I have a confession to make, I LOVE LONDON, I missed the city and if that means I’m cheating on him with the city of London.. Then…. Ahem!” ;)

DG