CLANDESTINE’S DAY OUT AT THE IPLFW – Volume 3

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Yes yes…before you wear a stunned expression at the sudden realisation of the Clandestine Cigarettes as to the third (and final) volume of the IPLFW series, let me just say it is you who prompted this delay. Our throats are sore from asking for comments on the blog. Our fingers refuse to type out “read, comment, follow” any more and our minds can’t seem to come up with any more ways of saying “comment on the blog please!” Instead, we get comments and feedback and reviews and mails in our Facebook inboxes and email ids *rolls eyes*. What good is that, I ask! Anyhoo, since my brain is growing cobwebs from not having written in eons, I decided to end my hibernation and finally brighten the CC page! So here goes, the grand finale of the IPLFW trilogy!! Woohoo! And I can proudly say, it is definitely worth the wait.

Presenting…a rendezvous with GayatriKhanna, Rocky S and LinaTipnis!!! Yes, we met them. Yes, we touched those beautiful clothes. Yes, they gave us a minute of their precious time (actually 30) and took us through the tedious, yet fulfilling process of getting their designs ready for the IPLFW.

Here are excerpts from the Gayatri Khanna and Rocky S interviews and a short review of the understated elegance of Lina Tipnis’ show.

Gayatri Khanna

A simply clad lady walked past us and it took us a minute to realise it was the lady herself! The humility was refreshing (especially since some of the young guns have an inexplicable air of arrogance!). We walked up to her, introduced ourselves and found her to be extremely warm and friendly. All we had to do was ask to be shown a couple of samples and that happened to be the equivalent of an “open sesame” to the entire range of the season, complete with inspiration, mock-ups, fabric detail and design team orientation! Whoa!!

So her collection was a wonderful mix of deep tones and prints that were variegated and experimented upon through use of motifs and surface ornamentation techniques. Divided into three segments based on main print ideas, the range consisted of fantastic permutations and combinations of the dominant motif. Therefore, a geometric motif in a tessellation print was turned and twisted around. In certain places, the lines were picked up with sequins and beads, in other cases colour variations added the necessary highlight. Orange and brown, red-burgundy-black and finally purples were the main stories.

A Beautiful play of colours by Gayatri Khanna; psst.. That is Gayatri herself showing CC each garment!!

Cut-work, drape, play of seams and surface technique experimentation were the selling points of the show. What stole the show, however, was the use of pure silk jersey. Aah! The lush feel of the fabric!! I felt like resting my head against it and letting it take me into a deep, peaceful slumber! Kudos to Gayatri Khanna for refusing to bow to the market dynamics which most designers fall prey to. When one doesn’t let costs threaten the quality of the design, one is indeed on the right path. (Pardon the sentimental discourse, but I get a little carried away when it comes to garment detail). Ms.Khanna is famous for her “western” designs, but what was commendable was how effortlessly she blended her roots with her inspirations. The result? A stunning collection that was the perfect representation of an Indian designer’s work in the “west.”

Cut-work tunic by Gayatri Khanna 

It was a pleasure to meet you Gayatri! Keep up the sincere work :-)

Rocky S

What comes to mind when you think of Rocky S? Funk, jazz, confidence, Bollywood and femininity with an underlying desire to cross over to androgyny? His collection lived up to all these expectations and managed to surprise at the same time. A cool dude that he is, his collection reflected some of his charisma and brought out the subtle glamour of the movie world he so proudly belongs to. Utterly approachable and yet slightly intimidating at the same time, Rocky was extremely enthusiastic about the idea of his work being written about by the Clandestine Cigarettes. He gave us detailed answers  to all our questions and also shared his contact details in case we had any more questions. What a darling! (The next time please give us a free dress, Rocky!)

So Rocky’s collection revolved around the “authentic quintessence of lavishness”. In his own words, the collection was “an affluent zenith of rich and sumptuous lehengas, graceful saris, chudidhar kurtas with a modern twist and lavish sherwanis”. It was quite evidently based on varied inspirations from around the world and very quite well received from what we could see. One more season at the IPLFW, and it will be lapped up by the buyers.

Rocky was apparently approached by Idea Weavers (the event coordinators) and by his own admission, instantly agreed to be part of it. And why not? The perks are fantastic global exposure and the chance to spread your wings in the international market. Plus since there is a huge demand for Indian clothes in the so called “western” world, this is a wonderful platform to connect with them on a personal level. Good thinking Rocky! And given a chance, he would love to participate in London Fashion Week as well. Who wouldn’t! Think of all the buyers under one roof!

So thumbs up to Rocky S for a successful stink at the IPLFW! Good going man!

Lina Tipnis

What a show! What a collection! Made us forget about the pathetic models and the completely immersed our minds in the Turkish delights that the range was inspired from. 

So with Istanbul as theme, one would expect yawn inducing details, a predictable palette and a tired-looking range of blues and whites. But she took Istanbul and turned it around on its head. What followed was a refreshing array of gaucho pants, draped constructions stitched into place, small, fine detailing, beautifully placed embroidery and surface ornamentation and a cool summer palette consisting beige, off white, gold, teal, brown and of course turquoise with red accents. Gold criss-cross patterned footwear added the perfect finishing touch to the simple, minimalistic collection. It was much admired and extremely well received by the London audience. It had to be! It was a wonderful end to the perfect day at the IPLFW!

We left from there assured of a good future to the Indian fashion industry in the “west”. The new designers showed ample promise; the veterans paved the way for a secure place in the London market. Here’s to being invited to more such events!!

Much love,

CC